I recently picked up 3D printing as a hobby. It almost feels unreal to be able to print pretty much any object I want to. From a door hinge for fixing a broken closet to shelves for my kitchen cabinet, there are a ton of functional prints that I use regularly at home. While it's certainly a nice hobby to have, the world of 3D printing can be rather intimidating for beginners. From deciding what 3D modeling program to use, which slicer is the best, and how to calibrate your printer, the process can get taxing if you're not aware of what you're doing.
Even after you tackle these aspects, you may face several issues when printing that can either ruin your print entirely, or cause problems with adherence, structural integrity, or the finish of the product. Most of these issues are quite simple to fix, but figuring out what's causing the issue is generally more difficult. That's exactly why I decided to help out fellow 3D printing beginners with fixes to some common issues that most people face when 3D printing for the first time. Whether your prints are warped or they're simply not sticking to the bed, here's a one-stop solution to all your problems.
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7 Stringing
Keep the tiny strands away
There can be multiple reasons for filament stringing while you're printing. Some common reasons for this issue are overheating of the filament, improper retraction, and slow printing speeds. If you see small strands of filament floating between two ends of your print, it's time to give any of these solutions a try. Firstly, try reducing the temperature of the extruder. Ensure you set it to the required value depending on the filament you're using. For instance, the recommended temperature for PLA is 200-205°C or 392-401°F.
If the upper limit is causing stringing, lower the temperature one degree at a time until the issue doesn't persist anymore. A few other fixes include reducing the travel speed of the print head since it gives the filament less time to ooze and cause strings, increasing the retraction speed ever so slightly, and drying your filament if it has been exposed to moisture or humidity.
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6 Under and over extrusion
Calibrate the nozzle perfectly
The way to determine if your printer is under-extruding is by spotting imperfections in the print, like gaps between consecutive layers, weak prints that snap when subjected to external force, missing pieces in between layers, or rough edges created due to missing filament. If you observe any of these issues with your prints, the first step is to check if you've selected the correct diameter of your filament in your slicer. Most PLA or PEG filaments have a 0.4mm diameter, but check the packaging of your filament pool to decipher the exact value.
Another reason for under-extrusion could be a blocked nozzle. If there is leftover filament in the extruder, it could clog up the nozzle and prevent fresh filament from being extruded. To fix this, heat the extruder to about 200°C or 392°F. Then, let it cool down a bit before inserting a needle or any similar object into the nozzle to clean it. Pull out any excess filament that may be blocking the nozzle. You can also try increasing the flow rate via your slicer in case cleaning the nozzle doesn't help.
As for over-extrusion, it's generally characterized by bulging layers or extra material sticking to the surface of your print. In such cases, reduce the flow rate and temperature, and increase the print speed. The fixes for this issue are similar to those for stringing.
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5 Uneven surfaces on prints
Ensure dimensional accuracy
One of the primary causes of uneven surfaces when printing is poor bed leveling. Before you begin every print, ensure you auto-level your printer if it supports the functionality. If it doesn't manually level your printer bed to eliminate issues with even printing. It's also important to keep your printer on a stable surface since vibrations can cause the printer to move quite a bit if it's not stable. This can also result in uneven print surfaces.
A few other reasons for your prints looking uneven could be over or under-extrusion, insufficient cooling. and problems with bed adhesion. To fix the issue with extrusions, follow the steps above and then try printing. Increase your printer's fan speed when printing, and ensure the ambient temperature is also relatively cool. Try increasing the bed's temperature to ensure better adhesion.
4 Gap between infill
Reinforce the structure
Infill is what provides structural integrity to your prints. If the infill is weak or if there are gaps between the infill layers, your prints are susceptible to breaking easily. If that's the issue you're experiencing, there's a good chance your print speed is too high. This would prevent the extruder from going all the way to the perimeter of the print. If it doesn't go all the way, it would result in a gap in the infill which would ruin the internal structure.
Under-extrusion or low temperatures could also lead to gaps, so ensure you follow the troubleshooting steps for those issues too. You can also try changing the grid fill pattern to see if you're facing an issue with a certain infill. Try switching to the cubic pattern since it's known to extend to the perimeter. While you're at it, also increase the infill density to above 20%. Some slicers also have an 'Infill overlap' setting. Increase the value to about 0.12mm for a 0.4mm nozzle.
3 Filament not sticking to the bed
All you need is some glue
Low bed adhesion can lead to a plethora of issues or even completely failed prints. Some prints that take a lot of time need to be stuck to the bed for a longer duration, which can be difficult if the first layer is thin or doesn't occupy a large surface area. In such situations, you may need to introduce an external element to the print bed. This is usually a glue stick or hair-hold spray. Apply a thin layer of glue stick on the print bed before you start printing. This will ensure the print sticks to the bed till the end.
While most people like using a glue stick, I prefer spraying a thin layer of hair-hold spray on the surface. I've found that it's easier to remove prints from the bed when using the hair spray instead of a glue stick. Moreover, applying a thick layer of glue can mess up the bed leveling. The spray circumvents this issue since you don't have to come in contact with the print bed to apply it. Once the print is complete, use a scraper to remove the object from the bed.
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2 Warping
Fix low adhesion on the bed
This issue is related to the previous one in a lot of ways. If your print is sticking to the bed, but you're still observing some level of warping, it's time to increase the temperature of the print bed. The recommended temperature for PLA is about 60-65°C or 140-149°F and 80-85°C or 176-185°F for PETG. Start with the lower limit. If you observe warping, ramp up the temperature by 5°.
Before you begin printing, ensure you've leveled the bed. Otherwise, your first layer could be warped. Additionally, you can also enable brim in your slicer before you print. Brim holds the object in place using a thin layer at the bottom. This prevents warping to a large extent.
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1 Failure at overhangs and bridges
Your prints need support
Some complex prints may have large overhangs - essentially, areas in the print where there is no layer beneath to support the filament. Such prints require you to enable supports in the slicer. Supports are temporary structures used to hold the filament in certain positions where there are no bottom layers.
Once your print is complete, all you have to do is snap off the supports, and you'll have a clean print. If you've downloaded a print from any of the popular online websites for 3D printing, the description generally mentions if the print needs supports. If it doesn't, your slicer should notify you of loose ends before generating the gcode.
Perfect prints, every single time
Imperfections in your prints can be a massive turn-off, especially if it's a functional print or a potential gift for someone. In such cases, both dimensional accuracy and aesthetics are important. You will be able to achieve that only if you fix the issues you're facing with your printer. No more stringing, warping, or rough edges!
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