Located north of Tokyo along the Sea of Japan, Niigata Prefecture is famous for skiing and sake (rice wine). My first visit to Niigata, however, included neither.
Traveling in early September, my destination was Itoigawa -- Japan's most abundant source of jade and an internationally recognized geopark. Knowing only these details about the city, my goal was to see as much of it as I could on a last-minute two-night trip.
For anyone wishing to visit the City of Jade, here are my tips and recommendations.
Day One: Arrival in Itoigawa and Fossa Magna Museum
A kids' playground and preserved train cars are just two of the attractions adjacent to Itoigawa station's tourist information center. I highly recommend making time to explore. Image: Laura Payne
At about 11 a.m. on a Tuesday, I boarded the Hokuriku shinkansen (bullet train) at Tokyo station. It seemed to be a slow time for travel as I got a window seat in a largely empty car with a same-day, non-reserved seat ticket.
I reached Itoigawa a little over two hours later. After exploring the train station -- itself a sightseeing spot with attractions such as a model train room -- I hopped on a short bus ride to the Fossa Magna Museum. As one of the city's most famous museums, I hoped it could introduce me to the area and explain why Itoigawa is a UNESCO Global Geopark. Thanks to ample English descriptions, the museum did just that.
Besides being a large producer of jade, archeological evidence shows Itoigawa's stones were used as tools or jewelry as early as 7,000 years ago. This makes Itoigawa home to one of the world's oldest jade cultures.
Videos and written descriptions at the Fossa Magna Museum -- and other local museums -- are available in English and Japanese. If coming by bus, make sure to double check the last departure time at the admission desk. Image: Laura Payne
Itoigawa sits on the border of two tectonic plates and the precipice of an ancient trench known as the Fossa Magna. Once an expanse of water, the trench gradually filled in and formed a large piece of the Japanese archipelago -- including the land where Tokyo now stands. Even with little background in geology, I found these facts striking.
I went through the museum in about two hours. Visitors can also stay longer by joining a fossil-hunting experience (offered during certain daily timeslots and unavailable during winter) or by visiting the nearby archeology museum.
Day Two: Jade Coast, batabata tea and Japanese gardens
Jade can be found on multiple local beaches, but Jade Coast is the closest to Itoigawa station. Image: Laura Payne
Starting early to beat forecasted rain, I took a bus to Jade Coast -- a beach where jade sometimes washes ashore. A signboard explained that visitors may keep a few stones under 15 centimeters in diameter. I found many beautiful stones of many colors, though as an amateur rock hunter it was difficult to identify jade. The signboard included tips and photos to help visitors search, but I still second guessed the identity of every stone.
After a nice walk along Jade Coast, I decided to leave without taking anything. Those determined to find jade, might also search Lavender Beach or Oyashirazu Beach. On certain days stones can even be appraised at the Fossa Magna Museum to confirm if they're jade.
Batabata tea on the garden viewing room's jade tables. Make sure to put a pinch of salt in the tea bowl before whisking. Image: Laura Payne
From Jade Coast, I walked to the Tanimura Art Museum, which ended up being one of the most unique museums I have ever seen. Buddhist statues and the museum's architecture created a space resembling a temple inside a sunny cave.
Next door, Gyokusuien Japanese garden offered cafe items in its viewing room. I ordered batabata cha (batabata tea), a specialty of Niigata and Toyama prefectures. It is traditionally frothed with a double-headed bamboo whisk. I loved its oolong-like flavor. I bought more from the gift shop and chatted with the clerk, learning that batabata tea whisks can actually be hard to find nowadays due to the aging of craftsmen. Knowing this made the availability of the experience even more special.
Hisuien Garden's boulder is said to be a "power spot." When I arrived at the garden, the admissions clerks encouraged me to touch it for this reason. Image: Laura Payne
My final adventures of the day were visiting Hisuien Garden, eating a lunch of the local specialty black yakisoba (noodles stir-fried with squid ink) and visiting the grounds of Amatsu Shrine. Hisuien Garden was the highlight of the afternoon because of its 70-ton jade boulder and gallery dedicated to jade statues.
Day Three: Travel tips for visiting Itoigawa, Niigata
Visitors to Fossa Magna Park can see the meeting of two tectonic plates. I didn't make it to the park this time, but it's a must on my next visit. Image: Yoshitaka/Pixta
I left Itoigawa early the next day, worried that approaching storms might delay transportation. I had seen the places that interested me the most, so I was happy with the end of my trip. If I were to visit Itoigawa again -- which I hope to -- there are three things I noted for a future visit.
Book in advance. Firstly and most importantly, I want to book a hotel and rental car far in advance. I tried making last-minute reservations, but by then accommodations in central Itoigawa were fully booked. This forced me to stay in the neighboring city Joetsu. Short-notice reservations for rental cars were also unavailable during my trip. Try rental bicycles. Available at Itoigawa station's tourist information center. I got around central Itoigawa on foot and with public transportation, but bus times were limited. A bicycle could help me be more flexible. Explore farther. There was so much on the coast and in the mountains that I didn't get to see this time. If I can book a rental car in the future, these destinations will be at the top of my next itinerary.
Itoigawa is directly accessible from Tokyo by bullet train, so I may not have to wait long before my next trip.