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The best place to stay in a city is often just outside it -- especially when that city is Florence. With its Renaissance facades and throngs of visitors crowding world-famous museums, the center can feel more exhausting than inviting. But just fifteen minutes away, in the hills of Fiesole, lies a tranquil retreat that embraces nature, wellness and heritage -- while also boasting postcard views of the Duomo.
This elegant, hillside suburb has long attracted artists and aristocrats who built grand villas with sweeping views and filled them with art, books and furnishings. One of the loveliest is Il Salviatino, a 15-century villa built by the Salviati family, close allies of the Medici. It later became the home of influential art critic Ugo Ojetti, who hosted cultural icons like Salvador Dalì and Gabriele d'Annunzio, and then a Stanford University campus. Today it has been reimagined as a romantic hotel with Renaissance roots and a modern soul.
Now under the creative direction of Alessandra Rovati Vitali, a Milanese entrepreneur and founder of the floral and events company Tearose, Il Salviatino is imbued with feminine flair and botanical elements that run throughout the property. From the medieval staircase to the frescoed ballroom, each room has been enhanced with oversized palms and wildflower arrangements cut fresh from the garden.
"I wanted to create something that feels personal -- like staying in a very stylish friend's home," Vitali says. The result is a whimsical enclave that pays homage to Italy's singular heritage while celebrating the natural world.
Part of the Small Luxury Hotels collection, the property has 39 unique rooms and suites that display thoughtful details that reflect Vitali's eye as a collector and curator. One of the most enchanting is the Dome View Suite, boasting cinematic views of the villa's landscaped gardens and Brunelleschi's cupola in the distance. Inside, you'll find a mix of eras: handpicked vintage design pieces, customized Murano bedside lamps, and a few priceless treasures acquired during the famed Ritz Paris auction.
History is everywhere, from its frescoed ceilings and antique furniture to the centenarian trees outside, meticulously catalogued and protected by the city of Florence.
Il Salviatino's personality feels like Sofia Coppola's rendition of Marie Antoinette: decadent, romantic and a little bit rock and roll. The Greenhouse Suites, one of Vitali's newest additions, capture this balance. With vaulted ceilings, sunrooms, and juxtapositions of 17th-century oil paintings hung above freestanding bathtubs, they are among the most suggestive rooms on the property.
The historic greenhouse also houses the Aquae Vitali Spa, a 300-square-meter sanctuary across two levels. Inspired by ancient Etruscan rituals, the top floor offers massage rooms filled with natural light, while the lower level -- set in the villa's former wine cellar -- has been reimagined in delicate pink tones.
The amenities include a Moroccan hammam, Mediterranean steam room, Watsu pool, infrared and Finnish saunas, an ice bath, and a meditation space. The treatments use Augustinus Bader and Santa Maria Novella products, and can be booked privately for personalized wellness rituals. "I designed the spa as a place to completely unwind," says Vitali. "It's about reconnecting with nature, and yourself."
Nature is at the center of the Il Salviatino experience. There are two distinct gardens, making this very much a city-meets-countryside escape. The first, a landscaped masterpiece with hedges, fountains and stone staircases, sets the stage for the villa's grandeur. The second, a vegetable and flower garden near the infinity pool, doubles as a contemporary art space. Here sits Michelangelo Pistoletto's site-specific work Il Terzo Paradiso -- a reflection on the natural, artificial and spiritual worlds comprising of 3,000 plants.
"Nature is a source of peace and beauty, something to be respected," Vitali explains. "She is the mother of us all -- we need to honor her, and let her nourish us."
Likewise, dining at Il Salviatino is a true pleasure. The on-site restaurant Giacomo Milano, a famed brand dating back to 1950, brings Milanese flair to Florence. Known for its stylish crowd and refined seafood dishes, Da Giacomo al Salviatino serves the freshest catch on a sunny patio overlooking the villa's manicured gardens. Don't miss the red prawn tartare with mandarin sorbet, calamarata pasta with octopus ragù or the grilled Florentine steak with roasted potatoes and stewed beans.
After dinner, settle into the villa's living room with a cocktail -- where you'll realize Il Salviatino feels less like a hotel and more like coming home.