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Should I press my luck with an 8-year-old car battery?

By John Paul

Should I press my luck with an 8-year-old car battery?

Q. I purchased the TOPDON battery tester you recently recommended, and it is great. My 2018 Hyundai Elantra Sport came with a battery that barely lasted five years. However, my 2016 Hyundai Sonata ECO came with an AGM battery. According to the tester, the battery is still at 91 percent of capacity after more than eight years. Should I trust the battery or get rid of it due to its age?

A. The average battery life in the northeast is about five years, but that is just an average. Your battery seems to be doing quite well. I also have a Hyundai (Santa Fe Sport) with a 7-year-old AGM battery, and that one is at 71 percent capacity. It seems fine, but how long will it last? As an example, my wife's car is a 2015, and when the battery was eight years old, one day it just about started. I should have replaced it sooner. With my vehicles, I tend to test batteries often. This is a combination of being curious about how long I can go with the original battery, and also could be because of my yankee frugality.

Q. I have a 1974 Chevrolet El Camino. I've been diagnosed with ALS, and I no longer have the strength in my hand to turn the ignition key. Do you know if there is some kind of spring in the ignition cylinder that could be removed, so I could start the car without using vise grips?

A. There is nothing in the ignition cylinder that can be easily modified to make it easier to turn. You may be able to have someone rewire the ignition switch with a combination of a simple on/off lock switch and a push button. The other option is to use a key turner. This inexpensive device (it looks like a pocketknife) can mount up to three keys and is great for folks with limited hand strength. These key turners can be found online or at stores that have devices to aid mobility. The turners that I have seen are generally priced at less than $10.

Q. I have a question about my 2008 GMC WT3500 Sierra pickup truck with a 6L90 transmission. I checked the computer with a code scanner and got a code p0700. I recently had the throttle body replaced with a Hitachi unit, and now the truck will not shift out of first gear. What could be wrong?

A. The code indicates the transmission has requested the malfunction light (MIL) to come on. This can happen for a number of reasons. Since the issues have seemed to have started with the throttle body install, the first thing that should be done is inspect the electrical connections at the throttle body. The other possibility, since the issue started with the throttle body installation, is that it is possibly defective.

Q. We own a 2017 Equinox with the Ecotec 4-cylinder engine. Last week, without warning, the rear main seal blew out due to water freezing in the line running from the PVC orifice in the intake manifold. After having the vehicle towed to my mechanic he said when he worked for Chevy, they would see this occur on a regular basis. A GM service bulletin No. 14882 announces special coverage for this, but only for model years 2010-2016, yet there is documentation on YouTube and TikTok that this problem continues for later models like mine. One video showed a mechanic with four of them in his garage awaiting repair. I am looking at an expensive repair assuming the engine is still good. I wondered if you might have knowledge of additional extended service agreements GM might provide for this or of a pending class action. If nothing else, please warn your readers to have their Equinox serviced for this before they have a problem.

A. Chevrolet did issue a technical service bulletin, but to my knowledge has not extended the warranty. Since it is a known condition, I would ask the dealer to push their GM representative to get some customer assistance on the cost of the repair. The TSB number and title is: 19-NA-021- Diagnostic tip for oil leak from rear of engine after extended driving in cold temperatures.

Q. I have a Mitsubishi Spider, and I want to sell it. I had it serviced recently, and the car runs great, but the check-engine light is on. My shop is telling me it could be another $1,200 to solve the check-engine light problem. I know this sounds shady, but is there a way I can just take the bulb out?

A. You may be able to remove or disconnect the bulb, but you are right, it is shady. It would be much better to be honest. Put the car up for sale, describe the overall condition, and then mention the check-engine light. If possible, have someone print out the cause of the check-engine light. Then, tell the potential buyer that you are adjusting the price based on possible repairs.

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