When you wake up at the 100 Princes Street hotel, there's no question of what city you're in. The walls are upholstered with handmade tartan, and the views open on Edinburgh Castle and its hilltop perch.

It's a good time to be proudly Scottish: Edinburgh is celebrating its 900th birthday in 2024, and after a few years of exciting openings, the city is brimming with interesting restaurants, hotels and drinking establishments.