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The next big wine destination you've never heard of


The next big wine destination you've never heard of

But now, with warmer temperatures meaning Kent can mimic the growing conditions of French wine-growing regions - thank you, climate change - you can avoid strikes, snails and filthy looks from waiters on a trip to le Continent and enjoy these pleasures in the Garden of England instead.

A glass or two of Bacchus at Wildshark Vineyard certainly does help take the edge off any anxieties you may have about the more apocalyptic global warming predictions, it has to be said.

Yes, we could be facing the collapse of human civilisation, but at least we'll do it while enjoying a lovely drop.

The vineyard is another string to the bow in Elite Pubs' portfolio - the chain behind the likes of The Herbalist in Maidstone and The Potting Shed at Langley.

The first vines were planted in 2022, and this is its first full year of business, with a palpable buzz around the place when the topic of future plans comes up.

My visit came just before it was granted permission to transform the site into a major winery, visitor centre and 19-bedroom hotel, and our host is visibly excited by the prospect.

In fact, the enthusiasm about all things wine is clear as we step over the threshold of the bar/shop and are taken through an impromptu tasting and introduction to Wildshark.

We hear about how the idea for the vineyard was hatched, the five different types of grapes grown there, and its eco-friendly credentials, with everything grown, vinificated and bottled within 30 miles.

There's also one bold claim - without sulphites to preserve it, no hangovers.

While I don't have the data to fully test this claim, I did buy some bottles to take home and experiment with later - all in the name of science, you understand.

After an informal tutored sipping where I offer a few choice phrases from my Bluffer's Guide to Wine Tasting, Vol 1. - "mmm, this has nice undertones," "lovely minerality," "do I detect hay?" - I settle on the Bacchus Fumé (£7.90 for 175ml).

I'm told this oak-smoked option has spicy notes of vanilla, poached pear, and hints of cocoa - but all I know is it goes down a treat with a bit of cheddar.

I settle at a repurposed barrel in the courtyard overlooking the countryside to enjoy it with a charcuterie board, my drinking partner trying the only red on offer - a Pinot Noir (£8.90).

Things always taste better when you get caught up in the setting and the story - as anyone who's ever returned from a trip to Corfu with a vat of Ouzo, only for it to sit at the back of the cupboard for the next decade, can tell you.

And I'm sure there's definitely an element of that here. The views are stunning, whether you're focused on the vines, the tree-covered lake or the sweeping fields.

But the wine is undeniably good, too. The Bacchus, which was complex and crisp, truly won me over, and the red was light and delicate and a refreshing change from the so-heavy-they're-almost-chewy Malbecs I lazily order at bars - mainly because 'I know I can pronounce that one'.

After polishing off our board, we decided to go for a nose around. The vineyard offers more formal tours - both guided and self-guided, and with picnic, BBQ and afternoon tea options - but this was just a quick nosey with a G&T for fuel.

I was impressed to find the gin was Wildshark's own creation, too. While I'd usually be swayed by a fancy mixer, the fact that just a plain tonic was offered meant you could really taste the flavours - this one had notes of elderflower, honey and orange.

It was easy to feel plugged into nature and get a sense you were surrounded by everything you were drinking. Between the vines, bulging with grapes, are rows of wildflowers, and the vineyard also has its own beehives producing honey.

There's a real farm-to-fork feeling (or whatever the drinking equivalent of that is) to the place.

Catch up with the Secret Drinker's latest review here

That and the enthusiasm coming from the staff and the knowing glances when you crossed paths with other couples who had chanced upon this off-the-beaten-track wine haven made it feel like you were experiencing something on the cusp of being the next big thing.

With the expansion plans now approved, I'm sure it won't be long until Wildshark Vineyard is a name on everyone's lips and a real drinking destination.

It's touted to be on one of the best plots in the country for vine-cultivation, meaning its wines have the potential to rival the very best.

And with the visitor centre, hotel and expansion on the way, I can imagine it'll be a go-to for anyone with even a passing interest in Pinot.

Until the secret's out, though, I thoroughly enjoyed spending a slow Sunday afternoon, taking in the vines in this quiet little spot nearly no one has heard of.

Wildshark, Greenway Lane, Forstal Lane, Maidstone ME17 1QA

Décor: While there was no tearing me away from the courtyard, the interior was, like other venues in the Elite Pubs group, a lesson in modern rustic decor which perfectly complemented the setting *****

Drinks: Hangover-free wine, from a sustainable, eco-friendly vineyard, which is laid out before you? It doesn't get much better than that. I'm sure the Bacchus will taste just as good when I try it at home, but I realise some of my fondness for it might have been the experience. Until then though, five stars *****

Price: Expect to pay a little more for whites and rosé than the entry-level Chapel Down equivalents - the only English wine comparison I have - but the red is a little cheaper. A single G&T with a Fever Tree tonic is £7.10, which seemed decent value ***

Staff: It's the people that make places like this special, and our server was fantastic - bursting with knowledge, passion and good humour. There was nothing stuffy about the tasting session either - something that can be a turn-off for wine novices like me *****

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