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One of the more underappreciated genres of restaurant is the one that is, above all, useful. As pleasurable as a tasting menu full of rich dishes might be, it's unlikely to fit into your life in a meaningful way with any regularity. Many of us are more attached to our neighbourhood pub than we are to the special occasion restaurant four doors up - utility trumps luxury nine times out of 10.

The small space at 140 Rathdowne Street in Carlton has long been engineered for utility. Pre-pandemic, it was a cafe called Tanaka. When lockdowns hit, Tanaka was one of many Melbourne hospitality venues that morphed according to the needs of its neighbourhood. It became a market, a direct farm-to-consumer vegie box operation, a community hub for running clubs (when they were allowed), and more.