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Five Scottish autumn coastal walks with intriguing history and cosy cafes


Five Scottish autumn coastal walks with intriguing history and cosy cafes

This comes with its own distinctive soundtrack: salty winds that whip across the shores, the crash and thud of the waves, the distant bleat of foghorns from passing ships and the haunting skirl of seabirds soaring overhead. Here, we share our pick of five brilliant coastal walks with intriguing history, scenic panoramas and cosy cafes to warm up in afterwards.

Dreamy and dramatic in equal measure, Yellowcraig is nature's theatre at its finest. As the tree-lined trail gives way to dunes, you are greeted by a spellbinding sandy cove, with the craggy form of Fidra island beyond. The beach is glorious for a stroll and as you gaze out towards Fidra, with its resplendent lighthouse and bird colonies, it is easy to see why Robert Louis Stevenson is reputed to have used it as inspiration for his novel Treasure Island.

A lovely spot for a post-daunder pit stop is the cafe at Archerfield Walled Garden. It is dog-friendly, ideal for those with four-legged chums.

Culross has been likened to a living museum(Image: Gordon Terris)

Often described as one of Scotland's most picturesque villages, Culross has been likened to a living museum thanks to its ochre-hued palace, medieval abbey, well-preserved 17th and 18th-century architecture and pretty cobbled streets. This former royal burgh is a great starting point to explore a section of the Fife Coastal Path, with the three-mile (5km) stretch that passes through Culross, Valleyfield and Torryburn also incorporating the Fife Witches Trail. A series of poignant plaques commemorate the women accused or executed during the 16th to 18th centuries, among them Lilias Adie - dubbed "the Torryburn witch" - who died in prison while awaiting trial. She was buried in an intertidal grave on the beach at Torryburn.

Back in Culross, head to Bessie's Cafe for a hearty bowl of homemade soup - be sure to sample the superb scones too.

Many Scots will be familiar with the story of the winter storm that uncovered the Neolithic settlement of Skara Brae in Orkney, yet perhaps less well-known is how shifting sands within Forvie National Nature Reserve revealed the partially concealed ruins of a 12th-century church.

It is an area captivating and stark in its beauty, home to some of the largest dunes in the UK. The mudflats around the River Ythan are brimming with birdlife - there is a designated seal haul-out at the mouth of the estuary. The Trellis Coffee Shop in Newburgh is open for breakfast and lunch, serving the likes of brioche French toast, Belgian waffles, fruit and nut granola, scrambled eggs, frittata and toasties, as well as cakes, specialty teas and hot chocolate.

Read more Susan Swarbrick

With more than 40 miles of gorgeous coastline and award-winning beaches in East Lothian, it is tricky to pick a favourite, but Tyninghame Links is one I have a real soft spot for.

This magnificent expanse of golden beach, also known as Ravensheugh Sands, is reached along woodland paths that skirt the edge of farmland. It is a stunning bay that packs a visual punch, with mesmerising vistas towards the Bass Rock. Sustenance awaits in the nearby village of Tyninghame. The Tyninghame Smithy is a charming tearoom and gift shop that sells hot drinks and home baking, as well as delectable soups and sandwich combos. It is dog friendly, with the added bonus of a snug, wood-burning stove.

The sun sets behind the Forth bridges in Dalgety Bay(Image: Ken Jack)

Having mentioned the coastal defences built around Tentsmuir Forest in a previous dispatch, another part of Fife well-worth a visit on this theme is Dalgety Bay.

The Braefoot Point Circular is a four-mile (6.5km) route that takes in the site of a First World War gun battery, built in 1915. While the weaponry itself is long gone, the emplacements and remaining buildings make for fascinating viewing. Back in Dalgety Bay pop into the excellent Ale & Pate, a coffee shop and ice cream parlour where the extensive menu features everything from breakfast fry-ups, hot-filled rolls, bagels and pancakes to lunchtime baked potatoes, burgers and pasta. Susan Swarbrick is a columnist and freelance writer who loves history and the outdoors.

Follow her on X @SusanSwarbrick and Bluesky @susanswarbrick.bsky.social

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